Thyme Bar is underground on West 23rd Street in the Flatiron District, in a pre-war cellar that was apparently a gambling hall and speakeasy in the 1920s. The current space works with that history rather than papering over it: exposed brick, low ceilings, and an aesthetic that the owners describe as a sustainable cocktail bar, meaning the decorative micro-greenhouses on the walls actually supply botanical ingredients for the drinks.

Bartender Samy Berdai runs a cocktail program that leans into avant-garde technique without losing sight of drinkability. Expect smoking elements, unusual vessels, interactive garnishes, and cocktails that arrive with some kind of aromatic component. The prix-fixe food and drink pairing is reservation-only; a la carte cocktails are available for walk-ins.

The World's 50 Best has listed Thyme Bar. Getting that recognition while operating out of a basement on 23rd Street says something about what they're doing with the space, which is effectively running a destination bar while being almost invisible from the sidewalk.