Undercote lives in the basement of COTE, the Michelin-starred Korean steakhouse on West 22nd Street, and it operates as a separate universe from the restaurant above it. No reservations, walk-ins only, first come first served. The room is dark and green, draped in foliage, with ambient music and the general sensibility of a jungle that happens to serve excellent cocktails.

The drinks lean into Korean tradition while being genuinely inventive about it. The signature cola nerve tonic pairs Michter's rye with lavender vermouth in a way that sounds more unusual than it tastes. Principal bartender Sondre Kasin has a soju-forward section on the menu that treats the spirit with the same seriousness usually reserved for whiskey programs. Surface Magazine put Undercote in the top five international destination bars, which for a basement room with no sign is a trajectory that was not obvious when it opened.

Open Monday through Saturday from five in the evening. Last call at one on weeknights, two on weekends. The no-reservations policy creates real scarcity on weekend nights, so earlier in the evening is more reliable if you haven't planned.