Tanner Smith's on West 55th Street in Hell's Kitchen is named after Thomas "Tanner" Smith, the Manhattan gang leader and bootlegger who ran the Marginals, operated as a Prohibition-era fixer, and was found shot in 1919. The bar makes something of a home for that history, open every day until four in the morning, which is not a schedule that suits a place pretending to be anything other than what it is.

The signature Winona is bourbon, bitters, maple, and wood smoke, which manages to be simultaneously precise and indulgent, and that balance runs through the rest of the cocktail program. The space itself is dim in a way that feels like a genuine design decision rather than the absence of one, and the crowd tends toward people who know to come here over people who stumbled in.

Being open at four in the morning in Midtown is its own statement. Whatever the night has been, Tanner Smith's remains available, which is either a comfort or a temptation depending on who you ask.