Spygold is beneath Greywind restaurant on Tenth Avenue in Hudson Yards, reached through a secret staircase in the corner of the dining room. The bar below is dim and fire-lit with velvet sofas and a pace that's entirely separate from what's happening upstairs.

Chef Dan Kluger, who has award-winning credentials, brought the same seasonal-ingredient sensibility to the cocktail program that drives the restaurant above it. The freezer martini is the drink that comes up most in conversation. The menu changes with what's available from the farmers market, which means the drinks shift in a way that most cocktail menus don't.

Open Monday through Saturday starting at five. For Hudson Yards, which has struggled to develop a genuine neighborhood bar culture, Spygold is the kind of room the area needed.