Nothing Really Matters is inside the 50th Street subway station on the downtown 1 line, accessible before the turnstiles, which means you can get there without paying for a train. The bar opened as a creation of Adrien Gallo, who was behind Double Happiness and Grand Banks, and it has the confident aesthetic of someone who's opened good rooms before.

The design leans into the location rather than fighting it: obsidian finishes, neon glow, exposed pipes, metal grates. It looks like a bar that belongs in a subway station because it made the decision to look exactly like that. One long bar, a nook in the back, very little natural light. Cocktails are $18 across the board. Pizza on weekends from five until nearly midnight.

Covered by The Infatuation and Timeout as a serious cocktail destination rather than a novelty, which is the harder version of the subway bar concept to pull off.