Mr. Fong's is on Market Street in Chinatown, marked by an unmarked corner door that leads into plum leather banquettes, a vintage jukebox, and a well-stocked bar with eclectic decor that leans into the neighborhood without being precious about it. Owner Lucas Moran described the ambition at opening as making something like the old Max Fish but with better cocktails, which is an honest summary.

The drinks include the Fong Colada and tequila drinks with Sichuan peppercorn, and the food menu runs to Malaysian beef jerky and pork buns. It functions as a quality cocktail bar that has the energy of a dive without the neglect that usually comes with that. Weekends it stays open until four in the morning.

Chinatown doesn't have many bars that combine genuine craft with that kind of late-night availability. Mr. Fong's has been doing both since it opened.