Coby Club is in the basement beneath Elmo restaurant on Seventh Avenue in Chelsea, named in honor of Miss Coby Yee and the San Francisco Chinatown nightlife scene of the mid-20th century. The room runs nightly performances on a fixed schedule: jazz ensembles Tuesday and Wednesday at nine and ten, a jazz vocalist Thursday and Friday, and burlesque on Saturday nights at the same hours. There's a three dollar per person entertainment charge.

The cocktails are proper, including the Coby Cosmo made with fresh fruit purees and specialty ingredients. Chef Carl Alioto handles the food side with croquettes, flatbread, and cured meats. Business casual attire is expected.

It's a room built around a specific cultural reference and it takes that reference seriously. The nightly performance schedule makes it feel more like a small club than a bar that happens to have entertainment sometimes.